TERRORISTS NOT TOURISTS

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"The world powers now realise that without solving the Kashmir issue, South Asia cannot become the cradle of peace." Ousted Pakistan Prime Minister Nawas Sharif.

The Kashmir issue. The cause of two of the three wars fought between India and Pakistan since independence from Britain in 1947. The Kashmir issue becomes a chilly prospect as the two countries enter the nuclear age with such gusto.

Saskia and I had motorcycled from England and had just ridden over the second highest road pass on earth, the Taglang La (5328m), to meet the issue head on.

Passing over the Zaskar Mountains, and following the Ladakh Range through Leh and Kargil to descend the 3,500m Zoji La pass, we entered the Vale of Kashmir through the back door. The Zoji La, an unsealed section of road zig-zaging its way down a scree slope, has to be negotiated in a choking convoy of busses and trucks which wait in huge alpine carparks for their turn to attack the steep pass. Half way down there sat a small memorial that required every military personnel to stop and pay respect.

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Highest point on the Leh - Srinagar road